Sardinia

Cala Francesca, Isola Budelli We crossed the infamous straights of Bonofacio (no wind again) on the 1st July via Ile Lavezzi which was too crowded so crossed into Italian waters and picked up a mooring buoy which a British yacht was just vacating in Dead Man's Passage at Isola Budelli in the Maddalena Archipelago. The whole archipelago is a nature reserve and considered to be very attractive but for us they didn't quite live up to expectations. The park rangers came round in the afternoon to ask if we had a permit for the reserve and promptly charged us €21.50 although it's not clear how much was for the temporary permit and how much for picking up the buoy. They didn’t bother to charge us anything on the 2nd night, so who knows?

From Dead Man’s Passage we continued south to Cala Francesca on Ila Maddalena. This is a very pretty double cala with a disused quarry in the south wing which is being tastefully re-developed; we anchored in the north wing with good shelter. Took the dinghy ashore and walked the 3km to La Maddalena but the town was closed until 17:30. Got the bus back. In the evening at least 14 small sailing school boats arrived and tied bow or stern to a very small stone quay. There must have been at least 60 people many of them families with children, they sailed beautifully and were very well behaved, a pleasure to watch.

Castelsardo Unfortunately the next day the wind was predicted to swing round to the SE and increase to 4 or 5 with a possibility of thunderstorms so we left and rounded Capo Testa to the North coast of Sardinia and anchored off the beach in a large bay at La Colba. We are now on mainland Sardinia. Apart from the holiday complexes there is a small store ashore with adequate provisions. The wind changed and freshened as predicted and we had a small thunderstorm but the anchorage was safe and comfortable so we stayed 2 nights. On the 2nd evening a German yacht at anchor off our Starboard side put out a stern anchor and shortened his bow anchor, very peculiar in light of the fact that the wind was supposed to change. All became clear when he got out a TV satellite dish and set it up, presumably to watch world cup football!

It was an early start on the 6th July because the forecast was for a mistral in the Golf du Lion with strong NW winds and heavy seas heading our way so we headed for the safe haven of Comune di Castelsardo. At least the wind and seas were from astern this time. The day was cloudy and very sultry and at 10:30 we had a small thunderstorm. We arrived at the port di Castelsardo and were directed to a berth. The marina is only €21 a night in July, and has a wi-fi connection, wow! The town, an old fishing village is built on a steep hill with a castle on top and is 20 minutes walk away or a short bus ride. The castle and surrounding area of narrow streets and interesting buildings is steeped in history and well worth the visit. Sidney a delightful 8 year old, far more mature and well travelled than his years, from a British boat further along the pontoon took quite a shine to Tan and engaged her in much conversation which they enjoyed.

View from Castelsardo Three days later we left Castelsardo and continued south to the very popular Cala Yacca close to the Fornelli passage and tucked in behind the Isola Asinara nature reserve. Beautiful aquamarine sea over white sand and jellyfish! It was the night of the world cup football final and by the sound effects from a hotel complex we deduced that Italy won. The next day we went through the Fornelli Passage then later the narrow gap between Ila To Foradoda and the mainland so see Neptuno Grotto, a very large cave and several hundred steps clinging to the side of the high cliffs. Tourists can arrive on foot or by pleasure boat. We anchored in Cala Taramariglio which is situated in the much larger Conte bay.

After 3 nights we motored across the bay and anchored off the tiny Porto Conte and went ashore to the only store in the area. Fortunately we asked directions from an English boat moored on the pontoon, otherwise we would still be looking for it. Then motored to the opposite side of the bay and anchored well away from the several tourist resorts dotted around, we were the only boat there after Rainbow (young Sidney) left in the afternoon.

Alghero We arrived at marina Porto di Alghero on the 13th July and moored on the town quay situated right under the citadel walls. The quay has been renovated and now has water and electricity but costs €40/night. Alghero pleasantly surprises us, with its wide boulevards and parks being a direct contrast to the old walled town which is also being renovated. We got a bike out and it’s the first place in Sardinia where we found good provisions at a reasonable price. There are two supermarkets in easy reach of the marina and a large Standa supermarket just a 10 minute cycle ride away. Alghero has a nice feel to it.

Two days later, no wind again so had to motor but we saw a flying fish and several dolphins leaping and doing somersaults. Cala Salins is supposedly undeveloped but like a lot of places new development is occurring at a rapid pace. There are laid moorings with a small fishing fleet and the beach is crowded. The view across the bay looks like the white cliffs of Dover.

Next day we are on the move again, this time to Capo San Marcoi, the site of the Roman ruins of Thassos. There are large villas around the cala but little else so next day up anchor again, and more dolphins en-route to Carloforte on Isola di Sant Pietro. The town of Carloforte is very clean, unusual for Sardinia and has a nice atmosphere. We were moored at the new Marinatour marina but the wash from the big ferries turning made it very uncomfortable so for the 2nd night we moved to marina Sifredi which was much more comfortable and I could watch the girls parading along the quay all evening! We tried to get fuel which is in the fishing harbour but it was too shallow.

Cala di Conca 19th July departed Carloforte. Despite the forecast for NE 2-3 the wind was on the nose yet again, SE 4-5 and a swell, progress was slow, so rounding the tip of Isla Sant Antioca at 13:30 we changed course and headed for Golfo di Palmas under sail. We had an hour of great sailing and anchored off a very nice beach in aquamarine water. No hotels, just a few houses and small local fishing boats, no pedalo's or jet ski's but the beach is popular with the locals and there is even a lifeguard. Behind the beach are rolling hills leading to the foot of the mountains. The farmers seem to use cactus both as a crop and also as hedgerows. The beach is tucked in at the western end of a military firing range which extends all along this SW coast and around Capo Teulada. Enjoyed 2 pleasant nights here.

On the 21st we continued our anti-clockwise journey round the coast of Sardinia and are now on the South coast. We passed many nice beaches and cala's with boats at anchor despite this being a military firing zone so we decided to join them. Again the sea was aquamarine over white sand and great swimming. Obviously the military don't practice in the height of summer, at least we hoped not as we were the only boat there the 1st night! We weren’t shot at so we stayed 3 nights. This is one of the nicest places we’ve found so far in Sardinia.

Anchorage at Isla Teredda We rounded Capo Spartivento onto the SE coast on the 24th and anchored on the eastern side of Capo di Pula which is the site of the roman ruins of Nora. There was a disco until midnight which was tolerable but it was noisy around 3 a.m. with drunken revellers on the beach. There was also occasional swell causing uncomfortable rolling, probably due to large ships passing crossing to Cagliari.

The next day we passed the massive Saroch oil terminal and on to Cagliari. The port and inner harbour of Cagliari is huge but the water is brown and dirty although there appear to be a lot of fish which often leap out of the water, probably to see where they are going! 1st thing was to fill up with fuel which is at the western end of the harbour. The marina’s which have no facilities are at the far eastern end of the harbour and a long way from the city. The area around the marina is dirty and run-down with no shopping facilities close by, it’s at least a 10 minute walk to the bus stop and 20 minutes into the city. We were very disappointed, but were rewarded with pink flamingos flying over in the evening and dolphins coming right into the harbour next day on a feeding foray. Two nights was enough, there was no way we were going to winter here. So the plan was revised! We still had a reservation in Barcelona so we would hop from Sardinia to the Balearics (it’s only 280 miles!) then to Barcelona.

So on the 27th July we head off back round the south coast of Sardinia to Pula where the Roman ruins are deemed to be the most important in Sardinia…. but not much else so next day to Cala Malfatano. An interesting cala with multiple anchorages separated by a small islet. The first night was uncomfortable because the forecast W-NW didn't materialize but a SE swell did so the next morning we decided to leave and as we did we saw the other side of the islet looked much calmer so we anchored there for another 3 nights waiting for the wind to change. Each evening we watched a pair of birds of prey hunting along the ridge-tops.

Pollenca, Mallorca The 1st of August, we have made it to Port Teulada, which will be our jumping off point to cross to the Balearics. It’s a safe anchorage just outside the port entrance sheltered from northerlies. The port is being developed and has water & electric but no shops. The only shop for miles is at the campsite just over the hill but it is expensive and limited. We were stuck here for 13 nights waiting for the NW mistral from the Golf de Lion to blow itself out before we could leave. We are well sheltered and comfortable here with most of Sardinia between us and the wind but it would be crazy to attempt to cross the 280 miles to the Balearics. On the 7th we were stir-crazy so we went into the marina (€51.75 per night!) and got the bus to town 8km away where we shopped at the outdoor market and the 2 small supermarkets. Tan liked the church. There is no fuel in the marina but they will deliver so I got 40 litres just to top up. 9th a good thunderstorm cleared the air but still the mistral blows and Tan is getting stir-crazy again. 13th another night in the marina to top-up with water and food before we leave tomorrow.

Mallorca Top

14th August, finally the NW has changed but the wind has also dropped so we motor sailed all the way. This is by far the longest passage we have undertaken and the plan was to go directly to Pollensa if conditions were favourable otherwise to stop at Mahon which is almost en-route. We made good time although the wind was light and swung round from the beam to dead astern. It was almost midnight when we passed 12 miles south of Mahon so we kept on going. As we entered the Canal del Menorca the wind changed to SW and increased to F5 which created a very confused sea and made it very uncomfortable and we took a lot of white water over the bows. It was Tan’s watch and she coped very well in difficult seas. The sea became more stable as the night continued but on my watch I had a very nasty experience.

Tan relaxing at Es Pins At 08:00 I had seen the high speed ferry leaving the bay of Alcudia and proceed across our path. It looked like we were on a collision course with us as the stand-on vessel so I maintained my course and speed. We were doing about 6 knots and he must have been doing well over 40 knots so the gap closed rapidly. By the time I realised that he hadn't seen us it was too late, but at the last moment he must have seen us and made a rapid course change to cut across our bows (it was too late to go astern of us) which left me in his considerable wake so we took more white water over the bow. Fortunately Tan was asleep below and not aware of the incident. Finally after 46 hours and 296 miles we anchored in the bay of Pollensa and slept.

Partially refreshed the next day we took the dinghy ashore and saw Mo & Jo (Mandurah) then a few days later Don and Linda (Glen Farr) arrived. Tan’s daughter Rachel sent us a text to say she is coming over with her friend Amber so on the 21st we went onto the public quay where we met Sheila, Allen, & Nigel from Port Vell, they had come over on the ferry and are going sailing with Julian. Also met Peter & Debbie (Cloudbreak), Geoff & Jen (Sooty Albatross), John & Linda (Guardian) while we were here, bit like a mini Barcelona. Me gusta Pollensa!

Dick and Anna After a total of 44 nights in Pollensa mostly at anchor in the bay and occasionally on the public quay we left because we needed to be in Soller to meet Jackie & Barrie. On the way we wanted to stop at cala Tuent where we duly arrived on the 28th Sept. It’s still a very beautiful cala, unchanged except for up to three large pleasure boats that come in to drop off sunbathers and walkers. We were the only boat at anchor in the cala but they had to manoeuvre around us. Good swimming, we enjoyed two fabulous nights at anchor.

There has been major renovation in Porto Soller which started last year. What used to be the nice sheltered transit Moll is now the very expensive marina Tramuntana (€50 a night at the beginning of October!) and the transit moll has moved and is quite exposed to swell even from moderate NW winds. On Saturday we had dinner with Barrie, Jackie, Mike, Jean, and Norma at their hotel and were joined for drinks later by James, his wife & two grown daughters, a very pleasant time. The five walkers came for lunch on the boat on Sunday, Tan did an excellent Pasta, Prawn & pesto salad. On the 2nd Oct. Dick & Anna & friend Berry came for a drink on the boat, it was great to see them again. On the 6th Geoff and Ann Cook from Mold in their boat Lotte of Lorne tied up next to us on the quay, small world! Next day we went to Dick & Anna's for lunch and a swim in their pool and had a really wonderful day then got the bus back in the evening.

New pontoon at Soller Unfortunately the changes to Soller are not good for live-aboard cruisers but favour short-term charter boats with unlimited budgets, so on the 9th we went back and anchored in Pollensa bay. On the 11th we moved to the quay because of potential gales, glad we did it arrived at 3:00 a.m. along with thunderstorms. Had Mo (Mandurah) over for drinks in the evening. Next day we went to lunch with Mike & Chris (Shabonee), great time and on the 14th Michael & Daknar (Roaring Forties) came over for drinks and the following evening we went to our favourite restaurant, Los Zarzales again, excellent.

We left for Barcelona very early on the 16th Oct. because of conflicting weather forecasts. Tan had a very unpleasant journey probably due to the confused state of the sea which was moderate not slight as predicted, not to mention too much rich food and red wine late last night at Zarzales. Good wind but fickle at times so we motor sailed all the way and made very good time. It was an uneventful passage (the best kind) we only saw two ships (no other yachts!) on the journey, just one dolphin and a small finch like bird which alighted on the boat.

After 17 hours 40 minutes we tied up in Barcelona. We are Pontoon E because we are now too big for pontoon B, although I didn’t realize the boat had grown! The quay strengthening work is still under way and can be noisy at times, but they are making good progress.

To summarize, compared to the Balearic Islands, there are longer distances between anchorages and marina’s in Corsica and Sardinia which increases the exposure to rapid weather changes because there is no safe place to go. There is often nothing but sheer cliffs dropping into the sea. They are also more expensive and less developed than this part of Spain which has its advantages and disadvantages. It was generally less crowded even in August but provisions were not as good and fewer and further apart but there is a lot of development going on. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience, well most of it! Top