Spain

Timothy - is this wise? We didn’t start cruising until the 11th May because of gales in the Golf de Lion. Our intention is to go north up the Costa Brava to France across the Golf de Lion then cross to Corsica and down the West coast to Sardinia to Cagliari where we may spend the winter (click here to view route). My son Timothy is coming with us for the summer. On the morning of departure Tan woke with a bad toothache so she went to the dentist and was prescribed a 7-day course of antibiotics. Forecast was for southerly 3 which would have been a nice start but both wind and waves were on the nose, from the north! Not a pleasant trip. Spent 2 nights in the Royal Club Nautic Arenys de Mar but their charges have gone up considerably from 3 years ago and are already charging high season rates.

13th May we arrived at Puerto de Sant Feliu de Guixols for 3 nights after motor-sailing all the way. We passed many nice cala’s en-route but the swell would have made it unpleasant to anchor. Three days later we went to Aiguablava and had our 1st night at anchor this season but the water is still too cold to swim. Aiguablava is a lovely little cala somewhat reminiscent of Cala Tuent in Mallorca. At 5 a.m. the wind started to gust from the North and the Navtext forecast said increasing 5 to 6 so we left early and as soon as we did the wind dropped so we motor sailed to L'Ecsala.

Cala Aigublava, Costa Brava On arrival at L’Escala the marinero showed us to a berth but after tying the stern lines we discovered the bow line was broken so we had to move. In the process I fouled the prop on the remaining bit of broken bow line so a diver had to set us free. Tan still has toothache so we have decided to stay until she has seen another dentist, then I came down with a cold and gave it to Timothy so we ended up staying a week. L'Escala grew on us.

On the 25th we arrived at Cadaquez which is now packed with mooring buoys laid by Club Nautic, who wanted €27 a night (without breakfast!) so we anchored in Cala Conca in the bay of Cadaquez. This cala is much nicer and less developed so we stayed 2 nights. My 1st swim of the season, very quick because it was cold.

Rounded Cabo Crues on the 27th but the swell was too much for comfortable anchorage so on to Royal Club Nautic at Llanca. It’s a very nice marina with washing machines and reasonable price until high season (1st June). Had an email from my daughter Emma casually stating that she is 6 weeks pregnant so we went out to dinner to celebrate. Had an excellent meal at the Bar Pacu-Pacu. Llanca has a very nice feel to it but the 5-day forecast has consistently been showing a tramuntana starting Monday night and lasting several days. I have been debating weather to go ahead of it or wait until after. It would have been nice to sit it out here but the rate goes up to €50 a night so we left on the 29th for Port Vendre to sit it out there.

France Top

Seaplanes firefighting at Port Vendre, France On the way we decided to try Portbou, the last port in Spain, the pilot book says it's been renovated and the website says last years price was €14. When we got there the price was €29 and it' not a nice place, so on to Port Vendre. Back in France again, very expensive and not as nice as Spain. Two days later there was a big fire through the mountains behind Port Vendre with three seaplanes fighting it, according to the news it was started by a 76 year old burning rubbish in his garden. 2/6 Walked to Colliure with Timothy and had a great day. We are sitting out the tramantana here waiting to cross the Golf de Lion to Marseilles whilst Timothy has been diligently working on a software course on his laptop.

On the 5th June we left Port Vendre and had a good crossing to Ile Frioul an island a couple of miles off the coast of Marseilles. We had to motor most of the time but also had a good sail for a while. We went into the marina because Timothy has decided to leave us and go home so we need to get the ferry to Marseilles and check out getting to the airport. I will miss Timothy very much.

Colliure, France 9th June we left Ile Frioul for La Ciotat where we got a berth in the reasonably priced port in the centre of town. It’s a very pleasant town, with many local shops and a big market on a Sunday and even a Lidl, so we stayed 2 nights. The 1st good swim of the year was at anchor at Ile de Porquerolles where we stayed 3 nights. This small island is very nice and we took the opportunity to do some walking. We left for Corsica on the 14th after stopping at the port for fuel and water which took far longer than expected due to tour boats loading and unloading next to the fuel quay. After a couple of hours motor sailing we were diverted to the North of Levant Island by the French Navy who were doing exercises. We passed part of the Rolex yacht race (going in the opposite direction!) on the way but had to motor sail most of the way and finally anchored East of the mooring field in the bay of Calvi but it's 20 min. to the Super U and we rolled quite a bit so after 2 nights we moved onto a mooring buoy at €20/night.

Corsica Top

Ille Poquerolles, France We’ve made it to Corsica. We both loved Calvi so we stayed a 5 nights. Early on the 18th the thunder squall predicted by Navtext finally arrived, 38 knots of wind (F8), no problem but glad we were on a buoy. We took the narrow-gauge train to the port of Ile Rouse which is a beautiful little coastal town North of Calvi. The train ride itself is quite an event as it hurtles along between the mountains and the sea.

Calvi, Corsica We left Calvi on the 20th and anchored in the Baie de Crovani, mountainous but uninspiring although good swimming. The next day we passed through a very narrow and spectacular passage between the Nature reserve island of Ile de Gargalu and the mainland and anchored close off the beach at Porto but the tour boats charge in and out at high speed causing an uncomfortable wash. Porto is a lovely little town with a small picturesque harbour along the river but suitable only for small craft. It is widely acclaimed as one of the prettiest places in the Med. but we think that's an overstatement.

On the 22nd June we arrived at the town of Cargese which is perched on top of a very steep hill and is unusual because it has a Greek orthodox church directly facing a Catholic church. We anchored in the bay although it has a pretty marina and an excellent Spar supermarket but it’s a long slog up the hill.

Porto, Corsica The next day we continued our journey South down the West coast of Corsica to the capital Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon. We had hoped to anchor in the bay but there are now many moorings laid and the wind was blowing into the bay so we decided to get fuel and enquire about mooring fees at Marino Tino Rossi. It is €45/night and we got the last space. Successfully re-victualed at Monoprix and Spar. Spar shops on the island are very good, a very different experience to Spar shops in other locations. The old town and citadel is very interesting and has a strong Italian feel to it but the new town with it’s anonymous high rise buildings and bustling traffic and pedestrians doesn’t marry well with it. We only stayed 2 days then on to Porto Pollo, a bay laid to mooring buoys for visitors so we picked one up at €15 a night. There is a large white floating rubbish container which you tossed your rubbish into as you sailed past, other than that…

Seaplanes at Golf de Roccapina On the 26th we rounded on to the South coast of Corsica to Cala di Conca. It’s a very beautiful small cala surrounded by shoals and reefs with a very narrow entrance. We eventually anchored bow & stern with 2 other boats but nothing went right. I intended to go around the stern of the powerboat closest to the shore but he had a stern anchor out and there wasn't enough depth so we touched bottom, fortunately the bow thrusters swung us round until we could reverse off. The anchor gypsy seized when I tried to let go the anchor so I had to pay the chain out by hand. Finally got the anchor down but not before scaring the wits out of the other sailboat anchored there. Lowered the dinghy to put out a stern anchor and discovered one of the oars had broken, so got out the spare.

Bonofacio, Coica Finally got anchored so went to erect the hood over the cockpit only to discover the zip stitching had come undone. Stitched the zip and went for a much needed swim. The water is very clear over white sand and we went for a short walk in the afternoon.

The next day we reluctantly left Cala di Conca because the swell from the East was increasing. Made a good departure after yesterday's debacle and anchored off a sandy beach in the large bay of Golfe de Roccapina. Seaplanes roared in and scooped water for fire-fighting several times very close to us, what a magnificent sight.

Cala di Conca 28th June, wind SE 4, on the nose yet again. Left Roccapina, had a look at Figari & Ilot du Port but weren't impressed and there was too much swell, so pushed on to Bonofacio. The harbour is chaotic with pleasure boats darting in and out and all manner of water traffic including very large super yachts. Met a very nice French couple on the powerboat next to us. The Citadel is huge and very interesting, a complete town. Bonofacio has a very nice atmosphere and there are a couple of supermarkets just a couple of minutes away. Great place, well worth a visit, we stayed three nights. Top