Mallorca

Formentor Lighthouse in the early morning mist Cruising this summer has been very laid-back with 164 nights at anchor and only 39 passages (2 overnight) covering less than 725 nautical miles. The highlights of the summer were both Tan and my daughter giving birth to our second grandchild respectively. Rachel had a baby girl, Sophia Lily and Emma had another son, Samuel Timothy Andrew. The need for cheap and frequent flights to Malaga and the UK determined our summer cruising range, so we shelved our idea of wintering in Portugal and booked back into Barcelona. As it happened we spent all summer in Mallorca (Balearic Islands) and Tan was able to go to Malaga twice and to Wales once.

20th April we left Barcelona for Pollenca, Mallorca even though the forecast was for no wind, lots of sunshine so we knew we would have to motor. Reality was no wind, lots of fog, visibility down to less than 100 metre at times. Thank goodness for RADAR, we tracked several ships on the crossing, one of them coming as close as half a mile and still we couldn’t see it, probably a trawler. We were inspected by several groups of dolphins along the way, the most we have seen on a single passage, they were racing around the boat and leaping out of the water, a delight to see.

The overnight passage of 106 nautical miles took a little over 20 hours so we arrived in Pollenca bay just after 9 a.m. for a well deserved rest. Next day we moved onto the quay to sit out the rain and strong winds which arrived exactly as forecast. We were re-acquainted with several old friends, Bernd & Danni, Mo & Jo, John Pau & Donnatela, etc.

Des Res at Cala San Vincente 25th – we went round to Aucanada in the next bay for a change of scene and anchored for 3 nights. Had a nice evening when Mike Collins came for drinks and a meal. The sea-water foot pump broke, it’s not essential but helps us conserve fresh drinking water by rinsing dishes in sea-water first. Anchored behind the port of Alcudia to go to the chandlers in search of a new one but to no avail, so returned and re-anchored at Aucanada.

More gales forecast so headed back to Pollenca on the 30th April and onto the quay where we sat out Force 10 storms with 52.3 knots of wind & 10cm of rain. After 4 days on the quay and 4 more at anchor in the bay the winds swung round to southerlies so we took the opportunity to visit the North coast of Mallorca.

7th May found us anchored alone in remote Cala Figuera, not even a mobile phone signal but Tan didn’t like being close to the rocks despite having anchored there several times before, so we weighed anchor and headed for Cala San Vincente eight miles along the coast where we anchored in the East bay We were only boat there until Duncan & Julia (Rampage) arrived at 22:00. Next day we took the dinghy ashore did some shopping and had a very good value baguette for lunch at Pepe’s Cafe. Duncan and Julia came for drinks the following evening. This cala has grown on both of us with it’s white sandy bottom and clear water and is popular with cyclists and walkers at this time of year.

Under seige by the Moors Third day we got the itch to move. Finally got the sails out - 1st time this season but the wind dropped after 15 minutes so we had to motor the rest of the way. Cala Tuent is still one of our favourite cala's and has changed little since the first time we came in 2004. The only noticeable change being the demolition of a small derelict hotel on the beach. First swim of the year, water still cool but I needed to check the propeller and bottom of the boat because we didn't lift out again this year - 3rd year running. Prop needs a bit of a clean but otherwise everything ok. Had a slightly rocky night so decided to leave and go to the better sheltered bay of Soller.

We arrived and anchored in Soller bay on the day of a big fiesta, a huge mock battle to celebrate the victory over the invading Moors. Lots of loud bangs and fire-crackers, many of the combatants arriving by tram but some by sea. Almost all the locals dress up and take an active part in the battle, which doesn't start until after a good lunch! Rampage here and Threshold (Karen & Steve) who we met at the Spanish classes in Barcelona.

Next day rowed the dinghy ashore for shopping and laundry, got back to the dinghy to discover a note taped to it "PENALTY CHARGE NOTICE. DO NOT IGNORE. Tan was most indignant and went to sound-off to Duncan and Julia. The back of the note said "Rude remark" and was signed by Duncan who was most amused! Next night, had drinks on Rampage along with Steve & Karen.

Bad start to the week! We planned to leave early next day to go back to San Vincente so Tan could get the bus to Port de Pollenca and go to a flower show there but were making such good time that we decided to bypass Cala San Vincente and go straight to Pollenca. Passed trough a thunderstorm en-rout. Made a complete hash of mooring, being blown broadside in the cross-wind. Oh well! Turned out that Tan didn’t get to the flower show, it was in the town of Pollenca, not the port!

Due to the vagaries of the weather we spent most of the next 8 weeks ping-ponging back and forth between Pollenca bay and Alcudia bay. Starting with six nights at Pollenca, three at anchor & three on the public quay (it's still low season rates) during which we had severe thunderstorms and winds of 46 knots (F 9 - strong gale). Duncan and Julia are both keen divers and keep their equipment on-board so we came to the arrangement that he would clean the prop and change the anode for a reasonable fee. He did an excellent job. Two American boats, Threshold and Wings who we knew from Barcelona arrived.

The outboard engine for the dinghy has been developing a progressively worse oil leak which I have been investigating but it looks like it may be the gasket so the whole thing needs to be stripped down, not a job for on the boat. I debated the wisdom and cost of repairing a 7 year old engine, what else was waiting to go wrong against replacing it with a new one. I found a very reasonable price at Mailspeed in the UK and they would ship it so I ordered one on-line. My decision to buy a new one was vindicated when I gave the old one to Bernd and he found the oil sump had rusted through.

19th May – Departed Pollenca and rounded the headland Cabo del Pinar into the bay of Alcudia and once again anchored at Aucanada (the motor-home season has started with six vans parked-up on the shore). Tan’s daughter Rachel called with the results of her 29 week scan. All is ok, baby about 3lb. On the 21st we had a nice walk along the coastal path to the Obelisk, passing some very desirable properties on the way. Next day we took the bus to Alcudia and did our shopping at Mercadona supermarket.

Cala Molto Monday morning awoke to the sound of an engine and got up in time to see the Salvamento (lifeboat) towing a 38ft motor boat off the reef which links the small island to the shore. Six men on-board going fishing got off to a very bad start!

On the 25th we planned to go to the Port of Alcudia for fuel and water then to anchor in the lee of the port for a couple of days. The fuel and water part went well but some idiot had laid a long unmarked fishing net in the anchorage area which got fouled in our propeller and around the anchor chain. Fortunately the rope cutter we have on the prop-shaft took care of the net around the shaft but it took a lot of teamwork, with Tan driving and me untangling to free the anchor chain. Not wishing to repeat the experience we returned to Aucanada and re-anchored.

Mike & Chris (Shabonee) are here in Mallorca and have a hire-car so next day, they took us to Restaurant Ses Torres (in the middle of no-where). This is a serious eating experience! It is a huge traditional Majorcan all you can eat (and drink) buffet. The buffet bar itself must be about 25m long, with at least 2 dozen starters including all my favourites, a complete array of fish and meat main courses, then fruit and deserts. You help yourself to bottles of wine, beer etc. the only restriction being one bottle of coke per person – none of us touch the stuff, preferring red wine instead. All this for 9.50 euros per head. The restaurant attracts a lot of island residents (often by coach) and locals but very few tourists and is always busy.

Next morning I awoke to the sound of voices close by – unusual when at anchor! About 24 swimmers were swimming across the bay from Aucanada to the island and back. Rather them than me although I probably needed the exercise after yesterdays feast

Debbie relaxing 28th May – back round to Pollenca for seven nights. The first three at anchor during which time we met Nick & Marlene for coffee then two nights on the quay because Tan is going to Malaga to spend some time with Rachel. Pete & Debbie (Paradox) and Pete & Carol (Fulmaris) are also on the quay – it’s like being in Barcelona. With Tan safely despatched on 1st June, I re-anchored out in the bay for a couple more nights during which Pete & Debbie came over for drinks. Then I did a solo trip to Aucanada and anchored for 2 nights then back to Pollenca until the 19th, collecting Tan from the quay when she got back from Malaga on the 9th.

19th June got fuel and water from Alcudia before anchoring at Aucanada for nine nights. Met up with Shabonee on their boat and had a great evening with Mike, Chris, Lizzy and cousin Angie. Then back to Pollenca for a further nine nights at anchor, during which we had Mike and Christine on-board for dinner, met up with Barbara & Robbie (Felix 2) when they appeared in the bay and had Gill & Christine (Moonlighting) over for drinks.

Finally on the sixth July we broke the pattern and went round to Cala Molto on the NE coast. A lovely uninhabited cala with a tiny beach & turquoise water over white sand. Very popular with small day-boats and with sun-worshipers on the beach in various states of undress – some au-natural. The first night was a bit uncomfortable with the swell but the second was great although it got busy with ten boats at anchor, mostly French.

Polllenca sunset Another change in wind direction predicted so we went to Cala San Vincente on the North coast. It was surprisingly devoid of boats so we anchored in prime position in the East bay. The wind swung round again in the night to NE, only force 2 to 3 but enough to create a swell and cause us to rock so off again to the safe haven of Pollenca. En-route the log crossed the 10,000 nm mark.

We went onto the quay for a night when Debbie arrived for a week on the 14th. She had an early flight and so had to be up very early so we took her for a menu-del-dia at El Posito, one our favourite restaurants. Later in the afternoon her sugar level got out of balance and she had a problem with her diabetes so with plenty of help from the marina staff we ended up with a Doctor, Nurse and two paramedics who were all marvellous. They arrived promptly just as the banana I had force fed Debbie started to kick in and she was soon her normal self.

Back to Cala San Vincente on the 16th only to find huge jellyfish so no swimming, but we had a nice lunch at Pepe’s. Once again the wind changed, the swell got up so we left next day for Pollenca. Rounding Cabo Formentor we took a wave over the bow and swamped the forward cabin bed with Debbie on it!

Tan had an appointment at the hospital at Inca on the 19th so we decided that with Debbie being here it would be easier and nicer to hire a car for three days which we did from the 18th to the 20th. Tan’s appointment turned out to be a bit if a dud, she saw the specialist who said she would be contacted by phone regarding another appointment for a scan. Anyway as it happened the call didn’t come for several weeks and was for a day when Tan was back in the UK. Since the problem wasn’t serious she decided to wait till we got back to Barcelona so we cancelled the appointment. It was lovely to have Debbie here and we enjoyed some good eating and swimming but sadly she had to return on the 21st.

Robbie and Barbara on Felix II On the 23rd July Rachel gave birth to Sophia and Tan went to Marbella to help out on the 29th for ten days so on the 2nd I sailed the boat single handed and anchored at Aucanada after filling up with water and diesel at Alcudia. That evening I got a call from a very upset Tan saying that she had and a serious disagreement with her daughter and was reluctantly returning the next day – c’est la vie! Better get the boat cleaned up and get rid of the brown-eyed brunette – even old men can have fantasies!

There are some Roman ruins in the bay of Alcudia so on the 8th August we decided to sail across the bay to the Islas del Porros where the ruins are, anchor and go ashore by dinghy but the local on-shore wind had created a heavy swell so we had lunch on board before returning to Aucanada for another night.

Cala Engossaubas was our next destination. Situated on the north of Pollenca bay near the head, it is an attractive small deep water cala under towering sparsely wooded cliffs popular with day boats and consequently difficult to find a place to anchor. In our case we were there early and managed to find a nice patch of sand to anchor but at almost 10m depth and with little swinging room. It took three attempts before I was finally happy that the anchor was dug-in and we had adequate clearance from the cliffs. The following morning we were rewarded with the sight of goats on the rocky beach. We have passed this cala many times without anchoring here, it is very pretty but boats going in and out of Pollenca bay cause a wash which causes rocking and although this dies down at night it is definitely a fair weather anchorage.

Just checking the chart Next day back to Pollenca for eight nights at anchor during which time we had drinks on Felix II with Robbie & Barbara and their friend Geoff (Dry White). Itchy feet again so off to the deserted call Figuera for a couple of nights and because the wind had veered round to the south we then went to Puerto Soller where we spent five nights at anchor, during which time Tan visited the Botanical gardens in Soller town. Pepe, a friend from Barcelona was also at anchor here with his beautiful friend Monica.

From Soller we continued along the north west coast and around to St Elmo opposite Isla Dragonera (Dragon Island – because of its shape). En-route we saw a large sunfish laying on the surface but it flopped over and dived down when I tried to approach. On arrival we picked up one of the “Life Posidonia” free buoys because this is a restricted anchorage area. It’s a very pretty anchorage with good views of the dragon island and the village which has retained it’s character with sympathetic new buildings but due to the rolling caused by the swell we only stayed one night.

We would have liked to stay at St Elmo longer but the forecast predicted worse swell so we went back to Soller where we stayed for eight nights during which time Tan visited a small museum in the town. Sadly on the 28th we were informed that Charles (Tan’s ex-husband) had died. Flights to the UK were fully booked due August bank holiday weekend and the end of school holidays but she finally got a flight back on 2nd September via Edinburgh so she could help out with the family and attend the funeral.

The day after Tan left I sailed back round the island and anchored at Aucanada. Mike, Chris, and Lizzie (Shabonee) were there and invited me for dinner. On Sunday there was a wedding on one of the large glass-bottomed boats which anchored close by and on Monday I planned to go to a classical guitar recital at the beach bar but the wind increased from the SE during the late afternoon making dinghy travel very unpleasant so I stayed on the boat. The engine sea-water cooling pump is leaking again, I replaced the bearing and seal only last year so that didn’t last long.

Hitch-hiker Back to Pollenca on the 7th September to get the water pump bearing and seal replaced which was achieved ahead of a big storm the following night. The blow started around 05:30, I was woken by a bump at 08:30 to find a lovely traditional wooden French boat had dragged it’s anchor and was resting across my bows. Fortunately Don from Glen Farr had seen what was happening and was using his inflatable dinghy to fend of the French boat. There hadn’t been anyone aboard the French boat for two weeks so I weighed anchor and moved. Fortunately there wasn’t any damage to either boat.

Tan arrived back on the 14th in time for a spectacular lightening display in the early hours of the 18th, followed by a thunder squall with severe gusts. On the night before we left Pollenca bay on 21st we had John and Dar (Kathai) on board for drinks.

We had arranged to meet Mike & Chris in Cala Figuera so they could come over for drinks and dinner – another great evening. An uncomfortable swell got up in the night so next morning we both left and went to Aucanada where we had dinner on their boat. Shabonee departed the following morning and we made a hasty departure to Pollenca in the afternoon when I checked the forecast and Chris called to warn us about impending bad weather.

We stayed in Pollenca for another 13 days during which time we went for another blow-out eating session at Ses Torres with Mike and Chris. It was while we were in Pollenca that we got the sad news that our friends Nick and Marlene would not be coming over as usual because Marlene had to stay in the UK for hospital treatment – we wish her good luck and will keep in touch with them.

In early October we met up with Mike and Chris again, this time with their friends David and Marjorie and had a menu-del-dia at El Posito. Two days later we went to cala Formentor and rafted to Shabonee at anchor there for lunch. Before lunch Tan had a very good swim, “the best of the season” according to her. This bay is regarded by many as very picturesque with expensive villas and a large exclusive hotel. Tan has always wanted to anchor here but in summer the hotel which owns the whole peninsular lays buoys and charges expensive rates. After Shabonee left we re-anchored but a strong breeze got up so we raced back to Pollenca where we stayed until there a weather window to cross back to Barcelona.

The public quay was at the winter rate, about a third of the summer rate, so we spent some time on the quay and some on Pete Moondance’s mooring buoy. It wasn’t until the 22nd October that we found a good weather window with calm seas so we left just after midday and had a smooth crossing albeit under engine with a little sail assist. We saw a few dolphins and several finches flying past at low level. A tiny bird arrived and took up residence in the cockpit for a few hours, even managing to have a nap before checking the chart plotter and taking off again. We made good time and arrived at our regular winter berth just after seven in the morning.