Erikousa, Corfu & Igoumenitsa

Ormus Kalami We weighed anchor in Stradioti, Montenegro at 20:00 on the 23rd August and set off for Greece view route. The 174nm passage took 33 hours over two nights. We had to be very alert leaving the Gulf of Kotor due to all the tiny one-man fishing boats with their lamps fishing for sardines and not looking where they are going. A lumpy sea for the 1st 24 hours but at 01:25 on the 1st night four dolphins came to play in the bow-wave and stayed several minutes and I saw a shooting star at the same time – fantastic. Then a nice slow sail for a few hours on Sunday evening but as we approached Greece the wind picked up and we were flying along at around 8 knots so we arrived at Port Erikoussa before sunrise. It was my watch so I used the cockpit anchor control I installed last winter to anchor successfully without waking the admiral.

Port Erikoussa is a nice sandy bay on the south side of Erikoussa Island some 8nm NW of the Island of Corfu it has clear water which is surprisingly cold! Ashore is a small village with a hotel, mini-market and a few taverna's. We had lunch at the wrong one! The local fishing boat was selling small crabs & skate at 5 euro a kilo but mackerel at 13 euro, we didn't buy! The bay is popular with flotillas and we ended up with 30 boats at anchor one night but it wasn't crowded. We spent 3 days here recovering and getting basic provisions.

Ormus Pagina It was flat calm and hazy when we left but we managed a nice sail later as the wind picked up and rounded the NE tip of Corfu Island into the North Channel with Albania just over a mile away. There are several anchorages on this part of the coast but they all shelve off steeply and are affected by the wash from the numerous high speed ferries which ply the channel. We chose Ormus (bay) Kalami and anchored in 17 meters with 55 meters of chain out (3:1 scope). Despite lots of water sports it is a pleasant anchorage because they are not intrusive, Ashore the village is a nice mixture of tradition and modest tourism. There are 3 small supermarkets.

Went to Gouvia to check out the marina as a potential winter berth and to get the travel permit (DEPKA) for Greece. The customs official refused to issue the DEPKA because the boat is registered in Jersey and said I had to go to Corfu town. Ah! well we tried but I'm not chasing around to buy a DEPKA. The marina is huge, featureless, expensive, and several miles out of Corfu town but there is a significant live-aboard community. Gouvia village is a 10 minute walk from the marina and consists of the very busy main road to Corfu town, a good supermarket and a straggle of mixed shops. The office staff were totally indifferent, the WiFi wasn't working and probably wouldn't be this year and even drinking water was charged for. Next day we got fuel before we left - expensive. Strike Gouvia off the winter list.

Anchored to the North of the entrance channel in Gouvia bay. A pretty spot under two very expensive villa's but there was loud music from across the water until 06:00 so next day we went across to mainland Greece where we anchored in the tiny almost land-locked Ormos Pagina. There is intensive fish farming all along the coast and in the entrance to the bay and it's very rural with nothing but sheep, goats, cattle, geese and a small farm which packs the fish. Albania is only a third of a mile inland and there is a flow of migrant workers crossing the hills in the morning and evening.

Koukouvista Sailed south down the coast and tied up on the quay at Igoumenitsa. It is a large bay with a commercial port, a ferry terminal and good provisions. I managed to get the DEPKA here, they didn't care that the boat was registered in Jersey. The DEPKA is valid for 50 ports and you are supposed to get it stamped at each port you visit. In our experience no-one cares. Went anchored in the bay overnight then back into town next day for shopping before leaving.

Still heading south we have decided to look at Levkas marina as a possible over-winter stop. We anchored for two nights in Monastery Bay just off Moúrtos which is a pretty little town with a nice town quay, three mini-markets and lots of bars, tavernas and an internet café. The water is very clear and good swimming. Even though it’s now early September there are still a lot of charter boats around.

Ormos Párga was our next stop. I forgot to reel in the fishing line when we arrived, it snagged and broke. There are lots of water sports and Tan didn't like it so we left and found the much nicer anchorage of Ormos Áy Ioannou just 3nm to the south. A very pretty bay with steep wooded hills and an underwater fresh water spring which gushes to the surface.

Gulf of Amvrakia & Levkas

Vonitsa town & Castle Continuing south along the Ionian coast of Greece, we turned into the huge Gulf of Amvrakia and tied up to the town quay at Preveza. There is a small commercial port here and yet another unfinished marina. The town is quite large and well equipped but the quay was very noisy at night with loud music blaring from the bars. The Gulf of Amvrakia is like an inland sea approximately 20 x 30 miles across. It is surrounded by hills and mountains and has several small islands and bays.

One noisy night at Preveza was enough so we went to Paliomylos bay almost at the eastern end of the Gulf . It is a tranquil well protected, gently shelving bay and there is nothing here except a taverna at the top of the hill and a few camper vans on the beach. On Saturday night the tranquillity was shattered by loud music from two wedding receptions being held in the taverna's function rooms. Next day we went to look at the taverna to discover it had a massive function room and ornate outdoor pools set in gardens, one of them just like the film ‘My Big Fat Greek Wedding’. Fortunately it had just closed for the season so we stayed three nights. We have now travelled just over 7,000 nautical miles since our departure in 2003.

Still in the Gulf of Amvrakia we stopped at Vonitsa for provisions, the small town quay was full so we anchored just off the beach and took the dinghy ashore. Then anchored in the lee of nearby islet of Koukouvista which is connected to the mainland by a causeway. The only thing on the islet is a church and trees but there is a good view of Vonitsa town and castle. Next day we took the dinghy through one of the causeway arches into Vonitsa for shopping and sightseeing.

Swing bridge After two days the wind abated and there was space on the town quay so we tied up stern-to. The town quay is situated under the castle away from the bars and tavernas so it's nice and quiet. Got the bike off and did some shopping, bought some fishing lures and went to the internet café. We went out to dinner and stopped at a very nice bar on the way back, Tan's whisky was huge! A loggerhead turtle swam between the breakwater and the town quay, quite amazing! Thunderstorms and rain forecast for the next couple of days so we went back behind the islet and sit them out at anchor. Four days of thunderstorms and rain duly arrived on Sunday night as predicted, 1st rain we've had for 8 weeks. Two porpoises visited the anchorage. Had drinks with Scott and Julie on their boat Physalian.

All-in-all we spent nine days around Vonitsa then went to the town quay at Preveza for water and provisions then left in the afternoon and anchored behind the port and unfinished marina, much quieter.

Jellyfish (Rhizostoma Pulmo) On the 19th September we left the Gulf of Amvrakia and headed SE to the Levkas canal which separates the island of Levkas from Mainland Greece. It was uncomfortable due to the choppy swell until we were in the tricky Levkas canal Enterance, then through the swing bridge into the canal proper and we anchored between Levkas marina and the town. It is quite shallow and there is very limited swinging room so we only had 15 meters of chain out. We checked out the marina with a possible view to wintering here, it's owned by the same company as Gouvia and has the same indifferent office staff and the same problem with the wifi and even more expensive than Gouvia but at least the town is on the doorstep. Levkas town is nothing to get excited about but it is good for provisioning. Another marina struck off the winter list! Next day we had heavy rain and strong NE winds (F6) and the anchor dragged so we re-anchored with 25 meters of chain out which held well.

Levkas town is situated at the north end of the canal so we motored the remaining 3 miles through the canal and out into the Echinades Sea, we continued south to Ormos Vlikho on Levkas Island. The town of Nidri lies at the entrance to Tranquil bay then through a narrow neck into Vlikho bay which is about a mile long by half a mile wide and consistently 7 meters deep and almost landlocked surrounded by hills and mountains. Tranquil bay was anything but, being jam-packed full with boats at anchor, but there was plenty of room in Vlikho with excellent shelter. There is no marina but many boats winter here afloat despite the lack of facilities but it's free. More rain showers and spectacular thunderstorms but even in the sunshine swimming is off the agenda due to the huge jellyfish (Rhizostoma Pulmo) which grow up to 90cm in diameter. Jeff and Jenn (Sooty Albatross) from Barcelona are here having the engine exhaust box changed. They have spent time here before and seem to know everyone. Had coffee with them and they directed us to the bakery and mini-markets.

Meganisi to Astakós

Astakós 23rd September and we still don’t know where we are going to winter. We left Ormos Vlikho after filling with water and passed Skorpidhi and Skorpios Islands both owned by the Onassis family en-route to Meganisi Island where we anchored at Port Atheni. Port is a slight exaggeration, there is a small quay and a tiny fishing port, a taverna and a bar/mini-market which has showers, a washing machine and free wifi. Next day we moored stern on to the quay to get water and electricity, the electricity doesn't work but water was available. This is a popular place for flotillas to stop with about 3 or 4 a week. The village is 1 km up-hill all the way and has only basic provisions. Ate at the Niagas taverna, very good food and good value and the people are very nice. More rain and thunderstorms so we stayed six days until the front passed over.

When we eventually left Port Atheni we went south down the west coast of Meganisi island, looked at Frikes harbour which is described in the pilot book as picture postcard but it is very small and busy so we anchored under Áy Nikólaos and behind the tiny barren Itaca Island. The anchorage is a very pretty rural place overlooked by a desirable residence with beautiful gardens and a small chapel. A large herd of goats came down to the beach which made the Admiral's day.

Next day, the end of September, we left the island of Meganisi and went to the next island, Ithica. Captain Jack not on form today, it took 3 attempts to moor stern-on to the town quay at Vathi, 1st time the anchor didn't hold, 2nd time he let out the anchor far to early and we ran out of chain - 80 meters of it!, 3rd time lucky but tempers were a little frayed.

Landing Tuna Vathi is a surprisingly nice place with a helpful tourist information office, the first we've found in Greece and a Champion supermarket near-by which will deliver free. The forecast is for rain and strong winds later in the week and Tan has a urinary infection so we have decided to stay here for a while. Met a nice Australian couple with 3 children on an Amel 54. On the 4th October we moved to the north quay because it is better sheltered from the strong southerlies predicted. This quay is out of town and is quite unkempt, it should have power and water and the boxes were installed a few years ago but never connected - typical. Met a lovely young Greek couple who have a 4 month baby on-board who told us that the Greek phrase is that they "eat money" meaning that any spare money is spent, no planning for maintenance or upkeep or connecting the boxes! When we asked the name of the baby, it was explained that traditionally a baby doesn't get named until about a year old and that they don't choose the name, instead they ask a friend to choose a name - could loose friends that way! Also met Ross and Alison on their boat ‘Island Bear’. Two days late we went back to the south quay by the town and had water delivered by tanker, €14 for 275 litres.

We have had a reply from the marina at Kalamata saying they are fully booked for the winter so we have decided to winter in Brindisi and consequently we will head east to the Greek mainland then work our way north back through the Levkas canal, up to Corfu where we hope to meet Colin & Debbie who have booked a holiday there, then across to Italy.

Accordingly on the 7th October we crossed the Echinades Sea from Ithaca island to mainland Greece and dropped anchor in the well sheltered bay behind Petalas Island. Island Bear is here so we invited Ross & Allison over for drinks that evening, a very pleasant couple, he used to have his own fishing boat in the UK. Petalas island is deserted except for goats, birds of prey, egrets, herons and according to Ross who hiked up the steep hill there are tortoises.

Tan & Colin We are now on a mission so we followed the coast north to the bay of Astakós and anchored in Ormos Marathis. This area is quite busy with shipping, ferries, and small freighters. At one point on the passage we were caught in a pincer movement by a fast ferry and a cargo ship so I made a bold course change to starboard to run parallel to the ferry but in the opposite direction and all was well. Ormos Marathis is a pleasant bay with a small beach and what in summer is a campsite but now deserted except for a large sow and other pigs and goats which frequent the beach. Tan likes this place so we stayed two days.

Next day the wind increased from around 07:00 so we decided to leave and go to Astakós at the head of the bay where we anchored stern-to on the town quay. Island Bear is here so we went out to dinner together in a taverna just across the quay. Island Bear's GPS positioning system had stopped working so I helped him to try to fix it, but in vain. This is a nice working town with active fishing boats and a big ferry. Bought some new fishing tackle with advice from Ross.

Greece to Brindisi

Our preferred route back to Corfu took us back to island of Meganisi (a good sail) where we went stern-to in Port Atheni. Another excellent meal at Niagas Taverna. Next day it was an early start to get through the Levkas Canal swing bridge which only opens every hour. We arrived at Levkas marina with just enough time to get fuel before the bridge opened, it went like a military operation but we had to hurry because the flying boat which uses the canal as a runway was arriving. Interestingly, flying boats have the lowest priority in the right of way table. We made it though the swing bridge at 11:00 with several other boats. A charter boat in front of us came to a sudden and resounding stop when the keel hit rocks, they were shaken and probably stirred! Then I embarrassed us by touching bottom as we rounded the sand spit too close to the beach but we backed off and out into the open sea. As usual here the sea was very choppy but we soon had the sail out and made good progress to Preveza town quay where we topped up with water and provisions then went behind the port to anchor for the night.

Debbie Our next stop was Ormos Áy Ionnou on mainland Greece which we had previously stopped at on the way south, Caught two nice tuna en-route, 1st successes in 6 years! BBQ'd them for dinner - excellent but must remember one tuna is enough, we had tuna for days. Three attractive women sun-bathing topless on the beach - very unusual for Greece!

We left early next day in a hazy flat calm for the Island of Corfu with the possibility of anchoring on the southern tip before going to Corfu Town. We looked at Petriti on the south of Corfu and dismissed it so we continued on and anchored under the fort just outside NAOK Yacht Club. Next day moved into NAOK Yacht Club so we can meet Colin & Debbie. The club is only a few minutes walk from the centre of town and the water here is crystal clear and many of the club members swim in the club harbour. We are tied stern-to almost opposite Ramon Abromovich's super yacht Ecstasea. Colin & Debbie have rented a car and came to Corfu town for lunch, we had a lovely day, then 2 days later they took us to Palaikastrita on the other side of the island where we had another great lunch and an excellent day. It is always lovely to see them.

We are due at Marina di Brindisi on the 1st November so on the 20th October we left Corfu Town and anchored close into the beach at Ormos Kalami in the North Corfu Channel. No water-sports, no other boats, had a nice swim in lovely clear water.

Next day I wasn’t sure if the wind will be too much on the nose to cross directly to Brindisi so the plan is to round the north coast of Corfu and decided whether to run up the coast of Albania and then across to Italy or to head for Erikóussa island and anchor there. Once out of the lee of Corfu the sea was uncomfortable so we opted for Erikóussa and anchored in the same bay as when we first arrived in Greek waters. Caught another nice tuna on the way.

We left Erikóussa just after mid-day next day on the 86nm passage and arrived in Brindisi sixteen and a half hours later. The journey was uneventful until we were about 20 miles of the Italian coast then there were large ships coming from every direction. At times we were tracking seven ships at once which was quite challenging, fortunately we used the radar tracking system to plot courses and closest point of arrival. Tied up to the town quay at 05:00, had a well earned drink, and went to bed. We spent the next several days cleaning and provisioning and moved to the marina on 1st November exactly as planned.