Zakinthos

4219 The Venetians' 'Fiore di Levante" (flower of the East), Zakynthos or Zante, is famed worldwide not only for its natural beauty but also for the sea turtle Caretta caretta.

Myth has it that the island was named after the first founder-hero, the Arkadian Zakynthos. It enjoyed a great heyday during the Classical period, but because of its strategic position was attacked many times and captured successively by the Macedonians and the Romans. In the Byzantine Age it was plagued by pirates; afterwards came the Venetian Occupation; in later times its fortunes followed those of the other Ionian Islands, until their union with Greece in 1864.

Zakynthos covers an area of 406 sq. km. and its coastline is 123 km. in length. On the east side of the island the vegetation is luxuriant and there are tracts of plain, whereas the west part is mountainous. Correspondingly, the east coast is smooth and sandy, whereas the west is steep and rocky.

THE TOWN

The island's capital and port, also called Zakynthos, is located on the southeast coast. Although the 1953 earthquakes destroyed public buildings and churches of great architectural value, this is still a beautiful town, with spacious squares, elegant buildings, charming arcades (the most characteristic is the Rouga) and important churches, adorned with works by Zakynthian and Cretan icon-painters (Virgin of the Angels, Virgin Phaneromene, St Nicholas of the Mole, all built in the 17th century).

On the broad waterfront avenue (Strata Marina) stands the impressive church of the island's patron saint, St Dionysios. Built in 1708, it was renovated in 1764 and decorated with valuable icons, works by the Zakynthian painters Koutouzis and Doxaras. The church houses the coffin with the relic of the saint, which was translated here in 1717 from the Strofades monastery, where Dionysios had been buried.

Other buildings of particular interest in the town are the Byzantine and Postbyzantine Museum, the Museum of Solomos and distinguished Zakynthians, as well as the Municipal Library and Art Gallery.

Two kilometres outside the town stands Strani Hill, with a marvellous view over the port and the bust of Greece's national poet, Dionysios Solomos, who is said to have been inspired on this hill to write his 'Hymn to Freedom', which was later set to music and established as the national anthem of Greece. The ruins of the Venetian Castle crown the top of the adjacent Bohali Hill, while directly beneath is the delightful, flower-filled suburb of Zoodohos Pigi, named after the church dedicated to the Life-Bearing Source. Here too is the historic chapel of St George of the Philiki, where new members of the Philiki Etaireia (Friendly Society) swore their oath during the struggle against the Ottoman Turks.

BLUE GROTTO

Perhaps the most notable of the island's many sights is the Blue Grotto, one of the loveliest cave complexes in Greece. Located close to the northernmost promontory, Cape Skinari, it was discovered by chance in 1897. In this sea cave consisting of two interconnected caverns, the reflection of the sun's rays on the water creates stupendous scintillations of blue and sapphirine shades in the depths. Farther south is another sea cave known as Xygia, in which there is a spring of sulphurous water.

THE VILLAGES

There are many traditional villages in the hinterland of Zakynthos, most of them drowned in verdant vegetation, with attractive vernacular architecture, interesting churches, monasteries with distinctive belltowers, springs of cool fresh water and hospitable local people.

In the south are the villages of Ambelokipi, Lithakia, Agalas, Pantokratoras, Mouzaki, Romiri, Lagopodo (a short distance from the Eleftherotria monastery).

At the southernmost edge of the island (west of Lagana Bay) is the picturesque village of Keri, built in a daunting setting near the homonymous headland with its precipitous cliffs and lighthouse offering a breathtaking vista of the open sea. The village church of the Virgin Keriotissa (1745), built in Renaissance style and with an elaborate iconostasis, merits a visit. Close by (northwest of Marathia) is Lake Keri, an area known since Antiquity because of its bitumen sources.

In the heart of the island are the villages of Mahairado with its notable church of St Maura, Melinado with the remnants of an ancient temple of Artemis, Vouyato, Lagadakia, Aghii Pantes, Fiolitis, Galaro, Aghia Marina with its three-naved basilica of St Marina that boasts an elaborate wood-carved iconostasis, Aghios Dimitrios, Aghios Kirykos, Sarakinada, Kalipado with a church of St John decorated with wall-paintings, Tragaki and Kypseli with brooks and streams.

Farther north is Katastari and not far from here is the monastery of St John of Lagada. Continuing our way to the northernmost point of the island, we pass through Orthonies, with the monastery of the Virgin Spiliotissa (16m c.), and a short dis-tance from there is Volimies, an important village comprising two settlements. Of interest in Meses Volimies is the church of St Paraskevi, in Venetian baroque order with a wood-carved and gilded iconostasis and a characteristic bell-tower, identical to that of St Dionysios in the town of Zakynthos.

Closer to the west coast of the island, some very pretty villages nestle in the foothills of Mt Vrahionas, with splendid countryside and spell-binding view: Aghios Leon, Kambi, Maries with a church dedicated to Mary Magdalene, and Anaphonitria with the notable monastery of the Virgin Anaphonitria, in which St Dionysios was a monk. At the entrance to the precinct is a medieval tower (15m c.) and the church has an exquisite wood-carved iconostasis gilded with gold leaf, wall-paintings and precious icons.

In a pine forest farther north, with panoramic view of the island's western shores, is the monastery of St George Kremnon (16m c.).